Subject: Tach prob.& bushing ?
Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999
From: "DOC'S" <zdoc@yosemite.net>
To: <jfisher@sonic.net>

Hi James,

Doc here, When you are changing your mustache bar bushings to the Urethane ones you need to have the bar out of the car and in a well ventilated place. Heat the rubber and start it burning some then take a tool of your choosing and push out the center and the rubber bushing. DO NOT Remove the metal outer piece. Use some sandpaper to clean out the final rubber off of the inner metal housing. Then you just install the Urethane with some silicone lube in the package. The pieces go in from the outside with the center metal spacer installed you reinstall in reverse order. If you read the instructions in the package you will find that now you can see what is involved in the process. As far as the tachometer, have you plugged it into another 240Z to see if the gauge is working correctly? That is my first question to you. There is also a resistor located in the foot area of the passenger's side if the car at the lower area of the firewall. It looks like an old radio fuseholder. Inside is a carbon center with a copper wire wound around it. You may need to check the wires at the coil area. There is a wire color code in your original owner's manual to refer to for the wiring, or any convenient service manual. I am running the same set-up on my 240Z with the Crane XR3000 to get rid of the old points problems. It is not uncommon to have junkyard parts that are shot too. I think that with more light shed on the subject you will be able to find the problem and deal with your 240Z's minor problems. I hope that this helps you.
..........ZDOC OUT

From: James Fisher <jfisher@sonic.net
Subject: Tach prob.& bushing

Hi,Doc.
I have 2 questions for you. First, when changing mustasche(?) bar bushings (w/urethane) should I remove the metal pieces on the OUTSIDE of the rubber? Like with a grinder or something? OR leave them in? OR do they just come out with the rubber? IF they do, should I re-use them?

Now on to Tach, IT used to work ocasionally, but only up to 3000 rpm or so. Then after replacing the points with a Crane XR3000 (an L.E.D. gizmo), it stopped altogether. I tried one from pic&pull, but it was the same. I am thinking that the guage itself might be O.K. that it must be somethig else. I have a mental block when it comes to electrics, so schematics don't help much. Can this be checked with a standard ohmeter? If so how?

Thanks
P.S. The car is a '72 with an R200 differential.
Thank you,
James Fisher.